Collagen and hyaluronic acid: the anti-aging duo for firmness and hydration

As we age, our skin naturally changes. It can become drier, less plump, lose density, and show more visible fine lines and wrinkles. These changes are linked to several biological phenomena: a progressive decrease in collagen, a drop in cutaneous hyaluronic acid, slower cell renewal, oxidative stress, and UV exposure.

In this context, collagen and hyaluronic acid are two major active ingredients in beauty routines, both in cosmetics and nutricosmetics. Collagen contributes to the skin's structure and resistance. Hyaluronic acid, on the other hand, is known for its ability to retain water and promote a plumping effect.

Rather than opposing these two active ingredients, it is more relevant to understand how collagen and hyaluronic acid can act in a complementary way to support skin hydration, skin firmness, and skin elasticity.

Collagen and hyaluronic acid are naturally present in the skin, but they do not have the same function. Collagen is a structural protein, while hyaluronic acid is a molecule involved in water retention and skin comfort.

Over time, their presence and quality gradually decrease. The skin may then appear less firm, less supple, and less hydrated. This is why these two active ingredients are often combined in beauty routines aimed at firmness, hydration, and radiance.

Collagen constitutes a significant part of the extracellular matrix. It forms a support network that contributes to the density, resistance, and firmness of the skin. In the skin, type I and III collagens are particularly important. With age, collagen production gradually slows down. This evolution can contribute to a loss of tone, visible sagging, and more pronounced wrinkles.

In food supplements, collagen is generally used in the form of hydrolyzed collagen, also known as collagen peptides. This form is obtained by hydrolysis, a process that breaks down the protein into smaller peptides, which are better suited for oral intake.

Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally present in the skin. Its main role is to retain water in tissues, which contributes to skin comfort, suppleness, and plumpness.

Dehydrated skin can appear duller, thinner, and more marked by dehydration lines. Hyaluronic acid can therefore be integrated into a routine aimed at supporting skin hydration and the plump appearance of the face.

The combination of collagen and hyaluronic acid is relevant because it targets two complementary needs: structure and hydration. Collagen acts more on the structural quality of the skin, while hyaluronic acid supports its hydration and plump appearance.

The primary interest of collagen and hyaluronic acid concerns the skin. This combination addresses several common concerns: loss of firmness, lack of hydration, fine lines, dull complexion, less dense skin, or a feeling of tightness.

The benefits are progressive and depend on the quality of the formula, dosage, age, initial skin condition, and regularity of intake.

Hyaluronic acid helps maintain good skin hydration. It is particularly beneficial for dehydrated skin, thin skin, or skin lacking plumpness. Collagen, on the other hand, is more associated with skin firmness and elasticity. Collagen peptides are studied for their benefit in beauty routines aimed at supporting skin density and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Together, collagen and hyaluronic acid integrate into a complete beauty routine for visibly more comfortable, supple, and radiant skin.

Collagen and hyaluronic acid are also present in some connective tissues. Type II collagen is more associated with cartilage, while hyaluronic acid is naturally present in synovial fluid.

In a skin-focused formula, the main benefit remains cutaneous. However, some formulas can also be part of a more global approach including joint comfort, depending on the type of collagen used and the associated active ingredients.

For hair and nails, the interest mainly comes from collagen and complementary active ingredients such as biotin, zinc, keratin, or certain amino acids. Hyaluronic acid remains less central to this objective. Its role is more related to hydration, skin comfort, and the plumping effect.

After 30, the first visible signs can appear: fine lines, loss of radiance, skin fatigue. After 40, loss of firmness can become more noticeable. After 50, the skin often becomes drier, thinner, and less dense.

Mature skin can therefore benefit from a global approach combining the collagen and hyaluronic acid duo, an adapted cosmetic routine, hydration, a balanced diet, and daily sun protection.

The quality of a formula relies on the nature of the active ingredients, dosage, purity, traceability, galenic form, and the coherence of associated ingredients.

The question of marine collagen often arises. However, one should not systematically create a hierarchy between marine and bovine collagen. Quality primarily depends on hydrolysis, purity, peptide size, traceability, and the rigor of the manufacturing process.

Marine collagen can be chosen based on personal, dietary, or tolerance preferences, but origin alone is not enough to guarantee the quality of a product.

The presence of hydrolyzed collagen or collagen peptides is an important point. This form is obtained by hydrolysis, which breaks down the protein into smaller peptides, better suited for oral intake. A good collagen food supplement should therefore specify the form used, the daily dosage, and the quality of the raw material.

It is useful to check the daily dose of collagen, the quantity of hyaluronic acid, the presence of complementary active ingredients, the simplicity of the composition, and the form of the product. A well-constructed formula must be clear, well-dosed, and easy to follow daily.

Vitamin C is particularly relevant in a collagen and hyaluronic acid formula, as it contributes to the normal formation of collagen to ensure normal skin function. The combination of vitamin C and collagen can therefore strengthen the coherence of a beauty routine. Zinc, copper, or biotin can also complete the formula depending on the desired objective: skin, hair, nails, or radiance.

Consistency is essential. Collagen and hyaluronic acid should not be considered as a one-off intake, but as a progressive nutricosmetic program. Clinical studies on collagen peptides and oral hyaluronic acid generally evaluate results after several weeks, often between 8 and 12 weeks.

The effects are gradual. Hydration and comfort can sometimes be felt after a few weeks, while firmness, skin elasticity, and the appearance of wrinkles generally take longer.

An 8 to 12-week routine is often relevant to observe the evolution of skin quality.

The format depends on habits and the desired dosage. Powder often allows for a higher dose of collagen. Sticks are practical and portable. Capsules are discreet but sometimes less suitable for high dosages. Gummies are pleasant, but it is important to check their sugar content, additives, and the actual dosage of active ingredients.

A simple routine can combine:

• daily intake of collagen and hyaluronic acid for 8 to 12 weeks
• a balanced diet, rich in proteins, fruits, vegetables, and antioxidants
• sufficient hydration
• a cosmetic routine adapted to one's skin type
• daily sun protection to limit UV-related skin aging

This holistic approach helps to reinforce the consistency of the anti-aging routine.

Supplements based on collagen and hyaluronic acid are generally well tolerated, but certain precautions are still necessary. It is important to respect the recommended doses, avoid combining similar supplements, and check the composition in case of digestive sensitivity or allergies.

Some people may experience slight digestive discomfort, especially at the beginning of use. To limit this risk, it is advisable to respect the recommended dose, take the supplement with a meal if necessary, and choose a clear formula without excessive additives.

People allergic to fish should be cautious with formulas containing marine collagen. In case of medical treatment, known pathology, or specific monitoring, it is preferable to seek advice from a healthcare professional.

During pregnancy or breastfeeding, it is important to seek advice from a healthcare professional before any supplementation.

There is no true plant-based collagen identical to animal collagen. So-called "vegan" alternatives are rather formulas that provide nutrients useful for normal collagen synthesis, such as vitamin C, zinc, copper, or certain amino acids. Hyaluronic acid, on the other hand, can be derived from fermentation depending on the formula.

• Proksch E., Segger D., Degwert J., Schunck M., Zague V., Oesser S. Oral supplementation of specific collagen peptides has beneficial effects on human skin physiology: a double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(1):47-55

• Kim D.U., Chung H.C., Choi J., Sakai Y., Lee B.Y. Oral intake of low-molecular-weight collagen peptide improves hydration, elasticity and wrinkling in human skin: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Nutrients. 2018;10(7):826

• Hsu T.F., Su Z.R., Hsieh Y.H., Wang M.F., Oe M., Matsuoka R., Masuda Y. Oral hyaluronan relieves wrinkles and improves dry skin: a 12-week double-blinded, placebo-controlled study. Nutrients. 2021;13(7):2220

• Michelotti A., Cestone E., De Ponti I., Pisati M., Spartà E., Tursi F. Oral intake of a new full-spectrum hyaluronan improves skin profilometry and ageing: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Eur J Dermatol. 2021;31(6):798-805

• de Miranda R.B., Weimer P., Rossi R.C. Effects of hydrolyzed collagen supplementation on skin aging: a systematic review and meta-analysis. Int J Dermatol. 2021;60(12):1449-1461